Why Eastbourne should be your next staycation
Growing up in the coastal town of Worthing, I had always heard Eastbourne being referred to as "God's waiting room," a place known for its elderly residents. However, there is so much more to this town nestled against the breathtaking white-chalk cliffs of Beachy Head and backed by the South Downs. In the late 1970s, my parents called Eastbourne home for a while, shattering the myth of it solely being a retirement haven. They ran a charming shop and café, catering to both tourists and locals alike. From selling fudge and sticks of rock to visitors at the front to serving hearty sausage sandwiches and steak pies to hardworking individuals at the back, my parents created a thriving business. One glance at grainy photographs from those times reveals their vibrant and stylish lifestyle, with my parents cruising around in their lime-green MG sports car, donning fashionable bell bottoms and cozy sheepskin coats. And Sunday nights were reserved for special musical performances at the Congress Theatre, featuring talents like the iconic Petula Clark. Eastbourne is a town that defies stereotypes, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, history, and a vibrant community. With its stunning coastal views, proximity to the South Downs, and a plethora of culinary delights to explore, this is a destination that truly has something for everyone.
It was first put on the map in the 19th century by William Cavendish, 7th Duke of Devonshire, who inherited a large tract of land and drew up plans to transform a cluster of hamlets into an elegant retreat. Wide, tree-lined roads, an extended seafront stretching to Holywell beach and a new railway line to London helped its population and popularity grow. Today it retains its genteel feel for the most part, with neatly manicured gardens, an annual ATP tennis tournament and a pretty pier, rebuilt after a fire in 2014 with controversial gold domes. But a fresh energy is bubbling up too, as the next generation of families and thirty somethings make the move here from often-too-hectic Brighton and other cities – just as my parents did. In recent years, the movement of revitalising faded coastal towns has swept through Kent – Margate, Folkestone – but this latest wave shifts the focus further to East Sussex. Independent coffee shops and restaurants are springing up and there’s a collaborative mindset among the arts crowd as Eastbourne slowly begins to evolve once more. Here are some of the best hotels, restaurants and shops in town.
A Haven for Analog Enthusiasts
Nestled within the Enterprise Centre, a former railroad depot, Abel Dos Santos introduced the world to All Things Analogue — a vibrant store that debuted in the previous October. The establishment is a realization of a vision held by Dos Santos, who was once a merchandise and stationary purchaser for Foyles, offering an assortment of unique items. These range from washi tapes and Ola notebooks, to Japanese pens and mesh stationary holders from the well-known Korean brand, Livework.
Amongst these, several display items garnish the store adding to its stylized, antiquated charm. These curated artefacts such as vintage luggage trunks and a Corona typewriter, however, are not for sale. In addition, the shop also offers an array of sophisticated lifestyle products which includes the stylish YKRA canvas backpacks. To explore more about what's in store, visit allthingsanalogue.co.uk.
THE WONDER OF CAMILLA'S BOOKSHOP
Since making its Grove Road debut in 1985, Camilla’s Bookshop has captivated visitors not just with its resident parrot Archie, but also with its remarkable collection of pre-loved books. An awe-inspiring hoard (an estimated 500,000) fills the venue, skillfully arranged over three levels with stacks reaching beyond five feet tall. Venture to the upper floor for a magnificent assembly of cricket, automotive, and historical books; descend to uncover political literature and Penguin classics. By the entrance, an enviable collection of cookbooks beckons while Harry Potter volumes hold pride of place near the cash register. An undeniably delightful haven for book lovers. camillasbookshop.com
THE DELIGHTFUL BARLEY SUGAR
A visit to Barley Sugar deli is tantamount to a treat-filled expedition into the heart of Sussex's culinary delights. The local delights here range from Pevensey's exquisite blue cheese to artisan sourdough bread baked fresh by To The Rise, to the zestful experience of Ditchling Gin. During the pre-pandemic times, this location proudy hosted a quaint café spanning two floors. Currently, one will find this area revamped, devoted to a variety of homeware goods. The selection boasts designs from brands like Nkuku, Broste Copenhagen and showcases intriguing vintage artifacts like coat hooks, a tasteful French dresser. Additionally, Thomas Smith's skillfully handcrafted trugs can also be found. Discover more by visiting barley-sugar.co.uk.
THE HYDE CORNER
Situated in the heart of the town and vibrantly decorated with geometric patterns in shades of grey, The Hyde Corner is a hot-spot carved out of Eastbourne's spill of cafes. This hidden gem, sprung to life by Alice Harrison who earlier ran the now no-longer-open Little Bird in Brighton’s North Laine, stands out with its modern, visually arresting interior which includes artwork from the accomplished illustrator Beth Tibbles and an array of indie magazines and kid’s literature for grabbing. The cafe is well-renowned for its creamy flat whites, brewed to perfection with artisan Union beans. The counter also displays a mouthwatering spread of homemade cakes, among them the crowd-pleaser Raspberry and Cherry Bakewell slices. Treat yourself to a refreshing break at this cozy corner! To learn more, visit their Facebook page at hyde-corner.co.uk
EXCEPTIONAL TAPROOMS AND WINE SHOPS IN THE AREA
With a collection of unique beverages, taprooms and wine shops in Sussex offer an exceptional experience. Bottle Grove stands out for its diverse variety, with over 200 types of beer from local breweries such as Burning Sky in Firle and Lost Pier in Brighton. It's not just a beer shop but also a taproom where customers can enjoy friendly chats about hops with the hospitable owner, Gregor Mitchell. More information can be found at bottlegrove.co.uk. Another must-visit location is Levels. Here, the ambiance pulls you in - walls adorned with David Bowie and Joy Division posters, ambient music from a record player, and an enticing selection of literature for wine enthusiasts. Their Enomatic machine offers a selection of intriguing wines that can be sampled by the glass. Check them out at levelswine.co.uk.
TOP SPOTS FOR DAYLIGHT CULINARY DELIGHTS
Highly commended for its spectacular all-day brunch is the Company eatery, delivering freshness akin to the ocean breeze, with sandy toned decor enhanced by vibrant splashes of yellow, teal and muted pink. Their specialty dish, a combination of baked green eggs and kedgeree, garners a lot of admiration, refreshing Mimosas being a pleasing optional extra. Eastbourne is also home to a fantastic vegetarian spot known as The Green Almond, which consistently has a delightful queue of locals awaiting their delectable lunchtime offer like the much-loved pea, potato, and cheddar frittatas as well as the sweet potato and beetroot falafels. The charming, intimate atmosphere created by partners Carmen and Andrew Hagel contributes greatly to its appeal. It's been captivating patrons for more than seven years now, and if you're lucky enough to dine in, make it a point to secure the table under the shaded awning up front – the finest spot they have to offer. Visit companyeatery.co.uk and thegreenalmond.com for more details.
TOP DINING SPOTS FOR EVENING MEALS
A trio of years back, the dynamic duo of Erina Howard-Graham and her culinary genius partner, Craig Fletcher, unveiled Skylark. The pair's meeting at The Ram Inn in Firle led to this culinary gem, priding itself on using seasonally available ingredients from local suppliers. Skylark caters to your cravings for brunch, lunch, and, on three evenings per week, you can enjoy their enchanting candle-lit dinners. Mouthwatering staples from their kitchen include sumptuously roasted mackerel from the southern coast and tender pork tenderloin, all served in a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. Amp up your dining experience at Cru, an underground retreat for food and wine enthusiasts. The wine bar and restaurant are decorated with Hunter S Thompson's famed quote 'Buy the ticket, take the ride' in vibrant pink neon. Choose from their selection of tapas and dry-aged steaks, best enjoyed with a bottle from their impressive 200-bottle wine collection. skylarkeastbourne.co.uk, cruwine.co.uk
FOR A HIT OF CULTURE
It’s hard to miss the Towner Eastbourne, with its geometric mural by German artist Lothar Götz covering the exterior. The biggest art draw in town, it was set up nearly 100 years ago as a result of a local alderman’s bequest of 22 paintings and £6,000 to create a gallery for the people. Today it has a rotating collection that focuses on modern British pieces and includes the largest body of work by Eric Ravilious, plus an art-house cinema. On the current line-up is a John Nash exhibition and John Akomfrah’s Vertigo Sea, a three-screen film installation first shown at the Venice Biennale in 2015 that meditates on our relationship with the ocean. There’s also the rebranded Volt Gallery from the Devonshire Collective, showcasing emerging creatives and community projects, and Emma Mason, which spotlights British printmakers from the 1950s onwards. townereastbourne.org.uk, volteastbourne.org.uk, emmamason.co.uk
ENCHANTING COASTAL WALKS OF ELEGANCE
The gentle sun, a tranquil promenade, and scenic seashore - a walk in Eastbourne is a joy to behold. Beginning from Sovereign Harbour and venture westwards for about five miles, the wooden path welcomes you to the grandeur of the pier and the traditional Wish Tower, finally taking you to the recesses of the Holywell beach. Dare to take a dip in the sea here, or even venture to Birling Gap for a more adventurous swim. Situated halfway is the Marine Gardens, providing the perfect excuse to saunter across the road and join a likely line for a serving at the iconic Fusciardi’s ice-cream parlour. Treasuring over 5 decades of making exquisite homemade gelato, the taste is simply incomparable. Navigate to fusciardiicecreams.co.uk for more.
Eastbourne also constitutes a key part of Waterfronts - a grand project under the umbrella of England’s Creative Coast. This monumental venture comprises seven temporary, distinct artistic creations distributed across Essex, Kent, and East Sussex. Contributing to this is the thought-provoking work of Mexican artist Mariana Castillo Deball who, stirred by archaeological vestiges, has crafted an awe-inspiring walkway within the town.
In addition to this captivating project, Eastbourne provides a unique base for further explorations into the wonders of East Sussex. Just a short journey away lies the Ashdown Forest, a vivid and lush landscape, rich with an array of local flora and fauna. If you're planning an overnight stay, you might want to consider looking for hotels in East Sussex near Ashdown Forest on www.eastsussex-uk.com.
This one-of-a-kind pathway in Eastbourne is easily distinguished by a marking of blue chalk-stencilled rope, leading locals and visitors on a curious journey of discovery. Sculpted artefacts are seamlessly incorporated into the pathway, mirroring those found alongside an ancient Frankish lady in a local cemetery. Visit englandscreativecoast.com to explore this creative coastal wonder.
TOP-RATED ACCOMMODATION IN EASTBOURNE
Eastbourne recently welcomed a stylish gem into its hospitality landscape - the Port Hotel. Poised beautifully at the seafront, this hotel uniquely blends traditional local aesthetics with Scandinavian design. The interiors adopt a palette as dynamic as Eastbourne's landscape, with soft green hues reflecting the South Downs' charm, and a cozy pink-and-stone display at the front akin to smooth sea pebbles, letting the soothing sea waves sing lullabies to the guests. The bathrooms are marked by custom concrete sinks, terrazzo decorations, and the sheer artistry evident in Jonathan Murphy's abstract artpieces and Karen Peters’ ceramics that enhance the charm of the open-concept lower level. The most popular spot is undoubtedly the restaurant terrace, renowned for its crispy spring lamb with a hint of wild garlic, mint sauce, and a delicious combination of roasted beetroot and goat's cheese salad. Prices for a double room start from £140. porthotel.co.uk
THREE MORE SOUTH COAST SPOTS ON THE RISE
SOUTHAMPTON
Southampton, a city aspiring to become the UK City of Culture 2025, is embracing new and exciting cultural developments. One of these is the MAST Mayflower Studios, a state-of-the-art performance space that aims to encourage boys and men to explore the world of dance through companies like ZoieLogic Dance Theatre. This innovative initiative showcases Southampton's commitment to inclusivity and artistic expression.
The city is also adorned with captivating public art installations. Notable among them is a vibrant mural by Kev Munday located in the Westquay shopping centre. Additionally, a thought-provoking grid-like painting, inspired by social-distancing markings, can be found on the road connecting Bedford Place and Carlton Place, an area popular with students. These artistic displays add a touch of creativity to the urban landscape.
Southampton's food and beverage scene is also experiencing enticing new additions. Pam Pam, the brainchild of the talented team behind XOXO, a beloved brunch spot, is now offering delectable pizzas and tapas. Furthermore, Rita's Bar stands out with its unique blow-dry station and the convenience of having Espresso Martinis on tap. These hip establishments contribute to the ever-evolving culinary landscape of away-from-the-thrum Oxford Street.
PORTSMOUTH
In recent years, Southsea has transformed into a thriving center for independent businesses. Elm Grove, in particular, has seen a surge of exciting establishments. Rose Clover, an indoor-plant shop, has become a popular spot for plant enthusiasts. The Package Free Larder, a community-driven initiative, has successfully garnered support through crowdfunding, providing sustainable grocery options. The Southsea Deli, owned by Daniel Nowland, who previously worked with Jamie Oliver, offers a delectable selection of culinary treats. These new additions have revitalized the area, attracting locals and tourists alike.
Southsea's diverse offerings continue to expand with unique shops such as Coastal Remedy. This wellness and lifestyle store offers Eka candles, books on van life, and even a kombucha mini-bar. Additionally, Broadway Coffee Roasters, a café with a gallery-inspired theme, has created a cozy atmosphere for coffee lovers, using ethically sourced beans in their macchiatos. Meanwhile, closer to the waterfront, the Queens Hotel has recently reopened after a period of lockdown. Thanks to the expertise of Studio Kinford - an interior design practice founded by former designers from David Collins Studio in London - the hotel now boasts a redesigned bar and restaurant, combining style and elegance.
Discover Worthing's Vibrant Culinary Scene
Worthing, a coastal town located in East Sussex, has become a hotbed of culinary creativity in recent years. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant beach clubs of Miami, renowned MasterChef winner Kenny Tutt has expanded his culinary empire with the opening of Bayside Social, an all-day dining experience that promises to tantalize taste buds with its delectable South Coast seafood fish fry and more.
But it's not just Tutt who is making waves in Worthing's food scene. The shore is home to a burgeoning fleet of food and drinks trucks, each offering their own unique flavors and delights. Sample the refreshing botanical-infused spirits from Worthing Gin, indulge in wood-fired pizzas from The Gorilla Kitchen, or savor the delectable tacos created by the talented husband-and-wife duo behind Taco Look at Me Now.
While in Worthing, don't miss the opportunity to visit The Flour Pot Bakery's outpost in Tarring. This Brighton and Hove-based bakery is famous for its sell-out loaves of sunflower rye bread, making it a must-visit spot for bread enthusiasts.
With its diverse culinary offerings and picturesque coastal setting, Worthing has firmly positioned itself as a must-visit destination for food lovers seeking a unique and memorable dining experience on the South Coast.