The slate, tainted by a deluge, took on a feathery darkness. Late December in North Cornwall may be far removed from Betjeman's idyllic description of unclouded radiance, golden bays, and sun-kissed waves crashing at noon. Instead, it is a damp and brooding place, hidden under a teasing sky. Nevertheless, Cornwall, existing within England but embodying its own essence, effortlessly carries the weight of gloom.
This subdued illumination accentuates a lush beauty, as mist wraps itself around every contour. What might bring melancholy to other regions is perceived as raw and picturesque in the land of King Arthur and Tintagel, where smugglers once roamed and mythical creatures like Bodmin beasts are spoken of. In this realm, whimsical storytellers recount tales of buccas, boggets, piskies, and the pobel vean. The Gulf Stream's tempering warmth and protection bestowed upon these moors shield them from the excesses of winter, marking the boundary that heralds the end of England.
As I cross the Tamar River, passing beneath Brunel's iconic iron arches, I can't help but feel like a foreigner in my own land. Despite growing up in the south-west, I'm labeled a 'bleddy emmet', an outsider from the north. In Cornwall, you're either Cornish, born and bred, or you're not. Winter in this region leaves no room for soft gloaming; the transition from grey dusk to black night is abrupt and unforgiving.
However, amidst this stark landscape, I encounter Jacqui Green, a talkative taxi driver whose warmth radiates with pure Cornish spirit. Like a saffron cake fresh from the oven, Jacqui represents the unfiltered essence of Cornwall.
Let me take you on a journey to Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall. Immerse yourself in the rich history and breathtaking beauty of this idyllic location. Discover the farm's sustainable practices, innovative culinary experiences, and the genuine warmth of the locals. With Coombeshead Farm as your destination, you'll truly understand what it means to be a part of this Cornish community.
Coombeshead Farm, nestled amidst picturesque rolling hills and hidden valleys in Cornwall, has become a sought-after destination for travelers from around the globe. Offering a unique experience, this five-bedroom Georgian guesthouse is the brainchild of esteemed chefs Tom Adams and April Bloomfield.
With Adams renowned for his meat-centric London restaurant Pitt Cue and Bloomfield hailed as the brilliant chef behind New York's The Spotted Pig and The Breslin, Coombeshead Farm brings an English twist to the popular field-to-fork movement, which originated in the United States.
The farm's dedication to self-sufficiency sets it apart, aiming to have complete control over its produce within a few years. As a result, ingredients such as citrus and olive oil are not sourced externally, and the emphasis is on utilizing what the land provides. It's a sentiment echoed by Bloomfield, who delights in the idea of plucking a fresh beet from the ground, tenderly washing it, and popping it straight into the oven.
Experience the vibrant flavors of Coombeshead Farm and immerse yourself in the unparalleled charm of Cornwall. Book your stay in advance to secure your place in this extraordinary culinary haven.
Embarking on the field-to-fork movement is an admirable endeavor, as it allows individuals to have complete control over the quality and origin of their food. Unfortunately, this concept has become muddied by individuals who toss around trendy words like 'artisan', 'seasonal', 'sustainable', and 'foraged' without truly understanding their meaning. Coombeshead Farm, on the other hand, provides a refreshing break from this pretentiousness.
As soon as you step foot into Coombeshead, you are greeted by a warm and inviting atmosphere. Crackling fires, vinyl records playing, and comfortable sofas create a sense of genuine authenticity. There are no gimmicks or marketing ploys here - just a cozy home-like setting, complete with an honesty bar, where a talented chef takes on the role of your gracious host.
While many establishments may claim to offer a field-to-fork experience, Coombeshead Farm truly delivers on this promise. They raise their own cattle and cultivate their own vegetables, ensuring that every dish served is of the highest quality and comes from a known source. By immersing yourself in this unique setting, you not only get to enjoy delicious food but also gain a deeper appreciation for the dedication and craftsmanship required to create a truly sustainable and authentic dining experience.
One aspect that may pose a challenge for some is the concept of shared spaces. Upon entering, I notice fellow guests engaged in conversations in the spacious lounge. It's a rather unconventional sight for us English folk, who typically prefer to keep to ourselves and avoid any unwelcome social interaction during hotel stays. However, I am quickly put at ease as Lottie Mew, girlfriend of the farm's owner Tom, warmly greets me and guides me to a delightful room upstairs.
The room itself is compact yet elegant, adorned with luxurious bed linens, a plush mattress, and cozy Turkish-cotton dressing gowns. Every detail has been carefully considered, including the soap, crafted in-house using lard sourced from the farm's own pigs. It appears that Adams and Bloomfield, the proprietors, have a fondness for their rare-breed Mangalitza pigs, which roam the fields alongside chickens and bees.
As I settle into Coombeshead Farm, I can't help but lament about the lack of a bath, my aversion to showers, and the absence of a TV or mini-bar. However, these initial grievances quickly fade away in light of the remarkable attention to detail that defines this extraordinary farmhouse. Each room is graced with carafes of rhubarb gin, a truly indulgent treat, and two tantalizing squares of fudge that would make even Willy Wonka himself shiver with delight.
This is no ordinary farmhouse from my youth. Coombeshead is a sanctuary of comfort and luxury where the heating hums contentedly, hot water flows effortlessly, and the unwanted chill of draughts is effectively kept at bay. The abundance of ice, readily available by the fistful, further adds to the sense of refined opulence that is both understated and inviting.
Once you experience the sense of community at Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall, any initial apprehensions quickly vanish, just like butter melting on warm toast. As I make my way downstairs, my cheeks still rosy from a refreshing shower, I join my fellow guests by the crackling fire. Engaging in conversation, I connect with a vibrant young couple from Hertfordshire and their friendly cockapoo. To my delight, Tom enters the room, his arms adorned with tattoos of a salmon and a pig. A modest and softly-spoken individual, Tom graciously serves us delectable snacks before dinner. The ethereal gougères, crafted with Stithians, a local Cheddar-style cheese, melt in my mouth. This is swiftly followed by a slice of intensely flavorful Mangalitza loin, boasting an abundance of succulent fat, which takes my tastebuds on a journey of bliss. As a final indulgence, an exquisite Porthilly oyster rests gently atop a mound of elderflower granita, offering a refreshing hint of salinity. The flavors are pure, crisp, and utterly revitalizing.
Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall not only provides an idyllic setting for guests to unwind, but it also presents an opportunity to connect and bond with fellow travelers. With its warm atmosphere and exceptional culinary offerings, this charming farm sanctuary promises an unforgettable experience for those seeking a unique getaway.
As I explore Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall, I find myself captivated by its charm and ambiance. The combination of delightful Cornish cider and intriguing white wines adds to the allure of this place. Our group leisurely ventures to the stone-walled bakery, where master baker Ben Glazer crafts his renowned bread, sought after by renowned chefs such as Nathan Outlaw and Nuno Mendes.
Immersed in a rustic atmosphere, we gather around a vast fire pit while hop vines dangle from the rafters. Leading the culinary team is head chef Tim Spedding, who honed his skills at London's prestigious Michelin-starred restaurant, Clove Club. The soft lighting creates an intimate setting, and the air is filled with the enticing aroma of roasting meats. Here, an intriguing aspect arises - instead of a traditional menu, everyone is served the same delectable fare, ensuring a shared experience of culinary excellence.
The sourdough bread at Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall is a delightful combination of chewiness and flavor. Accompanying the bread are pickled adolescent carrots, adding a sharp and tangy element to the dish. Another delicious addition is the wild-garlic sauerkraut, which provides a punch of allium goodness.
One of the highlights of the dining experience at Coombeshead Farm is the friendly and passionate front-of-house staff who make you feel like part of their family. They bring out a pot of creamy terrine, balancing its porcine richness with vinegar-soaked nasturtium capers. The venison sausage, with its rustic charm, pairs wonderfully with elderberry ketchup, while the crab dish captures the essence of the sea with hints of seaweed and Jerusalem artichoke.
The flavors in each dish are bold but never overwhelming, as the kitchen at Coombeshead Farm knows the importance of balance. Whether it's knowing when to hold back or when to let loose, this kitchen showcases their expertise in creating a harmonious dining experience.
Indulge in a delectable pheasant broth, complemented by a charred leg and a uniquely stuffed Brussels sprout with minced meat. This dish showcases the undervalued and often overlooked flavor of pheasant, proving it to be the equal of renowned game birds like grouse and duck. As the wine flows and conversations deepen, the serene flames slowly fade away.
Unveiling the next course, a magnificent loin of charred Mangalitza commands attention alongside grilled hispi cabbage and a refreshing apple, adding a delightful balance to its robustness. By this point, a bottle or two may have been enjoyed, possibly even three, as tales of Bristol raving and on-set shenanigans entertain our newfound companions.